Flooring Care & Maintenance Guide

Dust-mop or vacuum (bare-floor setting), then clean with a barely-damp mop and a cleaner made for wood finishes — never a wet mop, vinegar, or steam, which dull or damage the finish. Address winter gapping with humidity, not water. When the finish wears, a screen-and-recoat or full refinish brings it back for a fraction of replacement.

Care is the same as solid wood: dry dust-mop, barely-damp cleaning with a wood-safe product, no standing water. The real-wood wear layer can be recoated and, on thicker veneers, sometimes lightly sanded — check the wear-layer thickness before assuming a full refinish is possible.

The low-maintenance workhorse: sweep and damp-mop with a pH-neutral cleaner. It's waterproof, so spills are a non-issue, but skip abrasive pads and harsh solvents that can dull the wear layer. Felt pads still matter — LVP resists scratches but isn't scratch-proof under dragged furniture.

Dust-mop and clean with a barely-damp microfiber — laminate's fiberboard core hates standing water, so wring the mop well and never let puddles sit at seams. Use a laminate-specific cleaner; avoid wax, polish, and steam mops, which can cloud or swell the surface.

Sweep and mop with a mild cleaner; tile itself is nearly bulletproof. The grout is what needs attention — seal it, clean it with a grout-safe cleaner, and reseal periodically to keep it from staining. Avoid acidic cleaners on natural-stone tile.

Use only pH-neutral, stone-safe cleaners — acids (vinegar, citrus) etch marble, travertine, and limestone. Seal stone on a schedule (more often in wet areas) so it resists staining, and wipe spills quickly, especially wine, coffee, and oil.

Vacuum high-traffic areas often to lift grit before it grinds into the fibers, and blot (don't rub) spills immediately. Schedule professional hot-water extraction every 12–18 months — it pulls out embedded soil a vacuum can't and extends the carpet's life.